STEPHEN J RANDALL
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THE JEWELLERY-MAKING VENTURE
OF A FATHER, HIS DAUGHTER AND THEIR DOG...


Apprentice to Masterpiece

4/12/2025

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First Flight: My Goldsmiths' Apprenticeship Masterpiece
Yesterday marked the end of my Indenture Goldsmiths Apprenticeship in Diamond Mounting. After the five years, we are expected to create a Masterpiece to present at Goldsmiths' Hall—a piece that encompasses everything we've learned and challenges us even further.
After lots of designing, endless prototyping, and manufacturing I proudly presented 'First Flight': a silver iris flower and dragonfly brooch-to-pendant. The piece depicts a dragonfly's first flight after emerging from the water, which felt like the perfect representation for my own emergence as a more confident, skilled goldsmith after these five years of apprenticeship.
A Piece with Purpose
The design is as functional as it is symbolic. The silver iris and dragonfly can be worn together as a brooch or separated—the iris as a brooch and the petal with dragonfly as a pendant. Every element has been formed and made by hand. For the assessment, the piece was submitted unset and without enamel, but we're excited to add diamond and enamelling early next year when it's returned.
I'm so grateful we took that leap of faith five years ago to begin this Master and Apprentice journey together. Now I'll continue learning alongside Dad, challenging ourselves and creating beautifully bespoke pieces for you all in our family-run jewellery and silverware business. Great things to come, we promise!

​How 'First Flight' Came to Life
Understanding the Form
After finalizing my design, I studied real iris flowers—dissecting them and pressing the petals to create accurate templates. This botanical study was essential for capturing the natural curves and proportions.
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I then practiced forming the main structure in brass first. This prototyping stage was invaluable: it helped me determine the final brooch size, material thickness, and measurements to minimize silver wastage. It also let me experiment with creating the right chasing punches and adjusting my pitch mixture (adding more plaster and tallow for better resistance when chasing).
Creating the Iris Petals
Using templates from the pressed petals, I pierced the silver petals from sheet, leaving extra metal on the thinner sections—it's easier to work with longer pieces and trim them once formed. I wanted texture on the petals, so I added line engraving and hand-filed the edges before beginning the chasing process.
Chasing the petals in pitch was a long, meditative process. I started with a line punch to create the central vein on each petal, then moved to larger ball and cushioned punches to build the three-dimensional fullness. Throughout, I constantly referred back to my pressed petal studies to ensure accuracy.
​The petals naturally wanted to bend and curl as I worked, which meant finding creative ways to position them in pitch—sometimes mounting them on wood pieces held in a vice—so I could reach different areas without disturbing the shapes I'd already created. It became a rhythm: chase, turn over, work from the reverse to emphasize contours, remove from pitch, burn off residue, anneal and quench the silver, repeat.
​The Dragonfly Takes Shape
While working on the petals, I also crafted the dragonfly body from round wire, using reference photos to get the proportions and segmentation right. The wings required three layers each, all pierced from silver sheet and carefully aligned. I glued and drilled through all three layers together, then soldered silver tube the front layer so the wing layers could be pinned together. This design allows the enamel and stone-set layers to be completed separately and riveted on later.
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Engineering the Stone Settings
To prepare for diamond setting, I needed to thicken the petal edges. Given their complex, undulating forms, I used wax moulding: pressing softened pink wax against the undersides to create impressions, then casting these to create backing plates of uniform thickness. After casting, I carefully pierced and filed them to the right width, leaving an outer ledge for solder.
Because my line engraving created channels where solder could run, I used erasure liquid to create barriers and control exactly where the solder would flow.
For stone placement, I laid diamonds table-down on each petal to plan a gradual size progression. Working one stone at a time, I drilled each hole, then positioned the next stone with girdles nearly touching, measuring carefully with dividers to mark the centre point before drilling. After opening all holes with ball and cone fraises, I created square back-holes with a piercing saw that followed the petal edges.
​Assembly and Finishing
I positioned the petals together in plasticine to test the fit, filed areas for stronger joints, then laser welded and soldered them into a unified structure.
The findings were equally important: I handmade a lever clasp from silver chenier and milled wire to secure the removable petal to the brooch. This involved filing a rectangular slot in the tube wall for the clasp mechanism, creating a pivot point, and making a tiny coil spring from guitar string steel to provide tension. All other findings—the brooch pin, hinge, and pin clasp—were also made by hand.
I created a cover leaf from sheet silver, initially curled in a swage block, then shaped with line engraving and rolled edges. An aluminium template helped me design and position the backplate before laser welding everything together. I even added a protective bayonet-locking leaf to cover the pendant attachment point.
After all components were assembled and the findings laser welded in place, I gave the iris brooch, petal pendant, and dragonfly a gentle pumice finish.
This Masterpiece represents not just five years of technical learning, but a transformation in confidence and artistic vision. Thank you for following along on this journey—we can't wait to share more beautiful work with you in the years to come.
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Valentines Day

3/2/2023

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Now that it's February, Valentine Day is just around the corner!
We have been surrounded with rubies, garnets and diamonds in the workshop these past few weeks so that you have something special to give this Valentines Day!
Come and see us at our jewellery shop, Harbour Smiths in Whitstable Harbour to choose a handcrafted gift.
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My Indentured Apprenticeship

10/4/2022

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Last October marked the start of my four-year apprenticeship in Diamond Mounting with the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths, with my lovely dad as my Master.
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It felt so special to enter the this trade with him by my side, and I admire his knowledge and skill so much that I couldn't think of anyone better to train under.
I will forever remember walking into the ceremony room, where I was officiated into the Apprenticeship Scheme with Goldsmiths, and being asked "How long have you known your Master" to which I replied "23 years", as the room erupted!
 
​​Since formally beginning my apprenticeship, I have begun to build and develop my hand skills in mounting. With the guidance and advice of my master and other talented trades people who surround us, I have already noticed a difference in my confidence in trying to make new things.
Below is a small selection of items I have made over the year, all of which utilised a new skill or approach to manufacturing that I hadn't explored before.

Single Stone Court Ring and with Flush Set Diamonds

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I was so incredibly pleased with the soldering, execution and setting of my first set of court single stone rings.

Sapphire, Amethyst and Topaz Drop Pendant

​It wasn't just me who loved the look of this pendant in our hut, as it walked out after being on display for a week.  Since their purchase, this wonderful pair have been back and asked me to make a18ct White Gold Single Stone Ring for them, which was another first for me!
My next mission it to make another but with a different colour combination – I’m thinking Diamond, Citrine and Peridot. 
​​When making this I mostly struggled with piercing out the light window in the side of the bezels, this was the first light window I had ever pierced out and I was unsure on how to tackle it. Hopefully after making a few more of these I'll be able to do this with ease.

Other items on my bench over the past few months...

Each piece enabled me to experience something different; wax carving, chasing basic shapes to create the depth of form, different types of stone setting and be able to experiment with different mounts.
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11th November 2021 - Remembrance Day

11/11/2021

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A year on, I have risen to the  challenge set by Dad to recreate the Silver Poppies for Remembrance Day, and thought today would be the appropriate day to present them. 
To make them individual and give them that extra something, I included an additional stem with a seed pod. 
In hallmarked sterling silver, they will take pride of place in our shop for the weekend.
Today, and all days, we remember them.
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Forget Bake Off... We Do Carve Off!

30/10/2021

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Ruby & Diamond Ring Remodel

We finally finished our first ever father-daughter carve off at just after 11pm one Monday night, despite the sore eyes, mushed brain and the late night it was undoubtedly a lovely new experience to sculpt, cut back and file wax to form a custom-made ring.
​Between our benches lay dads initial ring remodel design and side by side we challenged ourselves to carve the same ring but how we each thought it should look. 
As first experiences of wax carving go, I quite enjoyed it!
​That’s not to say that I didn’t find it really difficult, especially when trying to create an equal thickness of metal around each stone for setting.
​This became trickier upon realising that the old cut diamonds were different shapes and depths, therefore allowing for each stone depth but also trying to make it look elegant whilst being organically shaped was an additional challenge.
Fortunately, dad overcame this hurdle quicker than I and within the time frame he definitely won the contest, and rightly so as I thought his version of the ring was cleaner and looked more fluid and feminine in comparison.
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Penguin Brooch

​The ring wax carving experience came just at the right time, because soon after I was asked to create a brooch resembling a South African Cape Penguin for our Whitstable Harbour Masters Silver Wedding Anniversary gift. 
​Armed with a methylated sprit burner, wax and various carving tools, I built up the shape of the penguin by depositing molten wax instead of cutting back. This is the way dad prefers to create a casting pattern, but I think I might practice with the cutting back method for any upcoming projects to see which style suits me best. 
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The challenge for me was creating a 3-dimensional piece from a 2-dimensional image.
In particular, imagining the penguin’s hollows and making his general shape realistic in terms of not making his high points too raised and alternatively his hollows too low. 
​Another difficulty was trying to create a black and white penguin have distinguishable markings in silver.
It was at this point we decided to mark his dark areas with small strokes of my trusty seating burr to give the illusion of feathers, in turn also giving him texture. However I was given strict instruction to start from the bottom, in order to allow the feathers to lay the way they should.
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Tying the knot with sea treasure

25/7/2021

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​Within the same few weeks we were visited by some wonderful customers who we absolutely clicked with and soon felt incredibly privileged when they asked us to make them one-of-a-kind engagement rings and a wedding band to mark their most memorable days.

Just Married!

​A huge congratulations to Chris and Nicola, who marked their special day with the giving of a Wave Wedding Band which perfectly hugged their new Sea Glass Engagement Ring. A beautiful, dainty green piece of Whitstable sea glass was selected by the couple for their single stone ring as it wonderfully reflected his life on the sea and her paramedic career. For practical reasons a smooth rub over setting suspended in a very slight tapered shank was drawn up and fabricated alongside my first wedding band made to fit around an engagement ring.​​ 
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Using a bit of mathematical logic (that I didn't realise I had) I fabricated a flat band, pierced out a section just over the width of the sea glass setting and under tension, I soldered in the silver piece that mimicked the shape of the setting. Low and behold, a wedding band that tucked tightly against their new engagement ring was ready for polishing.
​After their big day we received the most beautiful message from them both.
“Megan made our tying the knot extra special with an amazing set of rings. After getting the new engagement ring Chris proposed a second time down on the beach at whitstable. Absolutely beautiful having our memories built in our favourite place and having that extra special ring that seals the deal made by such a lovely father and daughter. Thank you both so much.”

Newly Engaged!

​We are also so thrilled for the newly engaged Jake and Grace! Jake approached us wishing to propose to his now-fiancé with a ring that truly symbolised them both. Their fond memories of the southwest coast entwined with the traditional use of diamonds was channelled into making a perfect ring for his proposal in their favourite place. 
​Set into a 9ct Yellow Gold tapered ring skank sits a naturally pear-shaped green piece of sea glass collected from Whitstable Beach paired with two tube-set  round diamonds.
The emotions were running high when he and his family arrived to take the ring home, and its moments that we share with our customers like these that make bespoke jewellery making so worthwhile. 
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A massive congratulations to you all and thank you so much for choosing us to create these bespoke pieces. It was an honour to make rings for your special days. We are sending you all the happiest of wishes for your  future endeavours. 
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A month back at the shop - A thank you to all

26/4/2021

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A big thank you to those who have visited our shop 'Harbour Smiths' at the Harbour Market Whitstable over the last few weekends! If you did then you may have met our honoured assistant, hopefully his paws weren't an issue when fastening any bracelets or necklaces!
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A few positive alterations in our hut have seen us be much happier with the presentation of our handmade work in the shop. We welcome Whitstable Sea Treasures to our doors, a talented local artist whose beautiful sea glass pictures perfectly complement our range of handmade silver sea glass jewellery. The Whitstable Lifeboats are supported with every picture purchase, as we believe it is greatly important to try to support local organisations that operate using voluntary funds to carry out their life saving work. 
​Since opening our doors, we have had a few very busy weeks in the workshop and harbour, however we are grateful for the lovely response to reopening, particularly with regard to new collections such as our sea glass jewellery. Thank you to all who have placed bespoke orders for rings over the past few weeks – hopefully they shall reside on your hands very soon. 
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Snowdrop Earrings and Guitar Pick

​In our busy weeks we have been approached to make a few fun items of silverware, for example a personalised Silver Guitar Pick for a 21st birthday gift, in addition to a few rings and earrings. Stand by for pictures of our bespoke rings coming your way over the next month after our lovely clients have received them for special occasions.
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On reflection, this guitar pick was the first time I had closely studied dad engraving. Even from this singular letter I learnt a great deal in how to transfer the image onto the silver without marking it, and what tools to begin with before using a scorper to deeply engrave the image. He advocates how lucky he was to get the opportunity to learn from a skilful engraver in his youth, who to this day we still use for our engraving of more challenging requests. I am aiming to practice engraving lines, letters and then images onto silver when a window of time opens up at the bench. 
Hopefully I’ll be as controlled with a scorper as dad after lots of studying and practice.

Miniature Silver Watering Can

​Thinking of pieces that are enjoyable to create; at the end of last year we had the pleasure of making another one of our Miniature Silver Watering Cans for a customer, with a flush set diamond in the watering rose.

We look forward to basking in more sunsets like this after a day at our hut and to seeing more of you all over the coming summer months on our beautiful working harbour.
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Getting into the 'Ring' of things ...

4/4/2021

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18ct White Gold and Diamond Stacker Ring

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This simple and elegant ring style allows all attention to be focused on this bright and perfect round cut diamond.
​The setting perches above the halo ring shank in order for other rings to rest beside it with ease.
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Stacking Rings with Coloured Stones 

Having watched dad create the above Diamond Stacker Ring next to me at his bench, I thought it would be a good idea to make a few coloured stone stacker rings in silver.

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A mix of round cut and cabochon indigo amethysts, lime peridots, cranberry red garnets, deep London Blue Topazes, golden Citrines, and dark violet Iolites, are encased by a polo of silver. A set of these rings will flexibly enable you to mix and match the positioning of each ring to create a different aesthetic each day. Pair them delicately together or go crazy and stack them high!
These will be integrated into our shop over the next few weeks when we are due to open. 
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First practice making a Knife Edge Ring Shank and Four-Claw Basket Setting

After having this ring staring at me on my bench for a week or so, I have finally got round to polishing my first attempt at a four claw set cubic zirconia (7mm) ring which is held in a knife-edge ring shank.
​There are a few things I'll be doing differently next time, such like making the profile of the setting not as square and intend to make the basket narrower and elegant.
Following a conversation with a good friend and fellow trades man, I will also create the knife edge using an alternative and quicker method rather than hammering the shank to a knife edge as I did this time.  This will also stop any impressions from my misplaced hammer strokes into the shank, which made it difficult to clean up.
On to the next one, and hopefully improve each time!
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We have risked assessed it and turns out the risk is me!

6/3/2021

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The first week of March will always be remembered as the first time I caught myself alight in the workshop!I leant over my French blow pipe flame to pinch a scriber from Dads bench and I didn’t notice until I could smell melting clothes. After a few choice words, I was standing in not a lot after throwing the clothes off me and onto the floor, with Dad chuckling away whilst passing me his sweatshirt.
I’ll try to remember to not be so lazy and move from my seat to find something on his bench next time… 
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​I am fine though,  my clothes were the only ones injured!

Things from my workbench this week

​In the week that I learnt not to wear well-loved clothes in the workshop, I have been making three coloured stone silver stacking rings in tandem with Dad making one in white gold. Additionally, for the first time I have been attempting to make a claw set ring and piercing out a ‘Perfect 10’ money clip to be included in a hall packet. 
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​Originally the four-claw gallery setting for a ring was intended it for a 5mm Round Swiss Blue Topaz, however I made a mistake with my measurements, having not made one before, and it is now ready for a 7mm round stone instead.

Making a ring shank that wasn’t simply made from round, square or D-shaped wire was also unfamiliar to me. So I wanted to make a tapered shank that would suit a taller setting and lend itself to focusing into the stone. It is still simple and mastered by many although it took me three attempts to make one I was happy with!
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Starting with a 2 x 3mm D-shaped skank, soldered and rounded up, I hammered a taper into the ring with the solder seem at the shanks thinnest point and therefore the top of the ring. I wouldn’t normally position the seem anywhere else other than directly at the bottom of the ring, however on this occasion I will be piercing through the seem for my setting. Annoyingly this D-shaped wire didn’t achieve the height I needed for the setting, so the solution to achieving a higher taper was to use square wire instead, which has more volume of silver in the same length. Finally with a more successful ring shape I can continue to finish the ring next week.

Jewellery from the Sea - Marbles and Two-toned sea glass

​In the few moments of down time in the workshop I have been whipping up some sea glass charms and a pair of sea glass studs. I was particularly interested in a green piece of sea glass with clear swirls contained within and a pure apple green marble we picked up from our morning walks along the shore. 
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Bench Sunday

26/2/2021

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A little glimpse into what we have been making at the bench over the last few of weeks.

Sterling Silver Aquamarine Studs

This beautiful pair of 4mm Round Aquamarines were chosen to be set into a stacked sterling silver earring setting which compliment the style of our stacking rings. They have an off-centred earring post after deciding that a bar across the back would detract the colour away from the stones.
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Twenty One Diamonds to celebrate Twenty One Years

A playful pair of 9ct White Gold Hoop Earrings scattered with a total of twenty one flush set round diamonds ranging from 1mm -1.4mm
Making these earrings was a prime example of realising that you never stop learning. Dad put his theory into practice after becoming concerned about distorting their shape with the downward pressure of setting.
Of course wanting to avoid such a thing happening, a brain wave hit of melting setting cement into the inside of the hoops. Subsequently make a solid pellet with an equal width to the earring, which would allow him to hold each hoop in a ring clamp and set happily without the worry of collapsing their circular shape.
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Sea Glass Jewellery and a Sterling Silver Pendant for a Harbour Trader

After such a lovely response to my first sea glass ring, I have made a couple more along with a rare purple/mauve sea glass pendant to go into the hut when we are able to open.
Now the weather seems to be brightening up earlier than expected, I will be heading down to the sea front more often to see what we can find for some more bench creations.
Secondly, I have been working on my metal carving which will come in useful when I am at the point of learning to make casting patterns, however when it is finished, this pendant will be for a talented chef from one of our huts at Harbour Market Whitstable. 
I got to experiment with a few different burrs and files in a brass version I made first until I had found my favourite few and was confident enough to start it in silver. The biggest thing I'll take away from doing this job, is that it is far easier to leave the last bit of piercing out until I am ready to carve the outer section. This way I'll have a larger surface area to hold onto when creating the angle for the inner parts.
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    Megan, the middle daughter of Stephen Randall, who has joined him in the workshop to follow a career in Jewellery Making and Silversmithing

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What Our Clients Are Saying

"We wanted to say the biggest 'thank you' for the incredible wedding rings. We can’t thank you enough for your skill, vision and for being so welcoming. You made our special day so much more special."

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Tel: 01227 282666
Email: [email protected]
  • Home
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